Nute

Earth connection was the first thing I looked at, injectors are new, loom is the original and the bike ran (briefly and like a tractor) before I pulled it apart. Continuity, where I can check it is fine. They are crank position sensors, two of them, at 0 and 180 degrees from memory when I pulled the cover off. Depending on how long I spend at the pub tonight I will have a look tomorrow and see what sense I can get from them as Ian suggests with a magnet. I assume I’m looking for a gradual change 0-12v across the signal and ground ( there are 3 wires) ?

Still not got around to the grips… Did fill it with gas, oil, coolant, turns over OK but injectors not injectoring. Process of elimination so far, and something Im not sure how to test is the Hall effect sensors. As luck would have it they are not made anymore, so tracked down some chinesium equivalents ( supposedly) on Aliexpress and waiting for them to show up. Obviously what will eventually arrive will be carpet slippers or a concrete fence post but will have to wait and see.

Check the charging voltage, if the voltage reg on the alternator exceeds the max charge voltage for the Li battery it will kill it. I can’t recall the max for a Li battery but google will have it.

Same to you Ian...

I will, can’t see myself ever selling it. I can’t believe they have pulled the plug on the FTR. Sitting down in the evening while my wife is watching some inane film I occasionally browse through the for sale adds … and keep coming back to FTR’s, wouldn’t mind one of the early ones with the asymmetric wheel sizes.

I don’t take many pictures, I’m pretty sure this was this year.

Merry Christmas one and all, and a healthy and happy new year...

Best thing ive bought recently are some really good noise canceling earbuds. Now my wife has to get up and come find me to speak to me rather than just sitting there and shouting from a different part of the house. Drives her nuts. She's not worked out yet that with them being connected to my phone she can just call me ... which will drive me nuts... but ive had em for over a year now ...

Cheers all, ill try the compressed air trick followed by the angle grinder trick

Can anyone give me a clue on how this comes off? The bar end just unscrews but I can't see how to get the bloody grip off. I prob won't reuse it but id rather not destroy it if possible.

I think it's something which directs where the cabin air goes as I change the heater settings. Either way I just want the heating to bloody do what I ask.

Just been removing the screen wash from the engine coolant expansion tank which my wife put in there thinking she was filling up the screen wash on her car ... Got to take mine into the dealers tomorrow to have the motor thing that runs the cabin heater replaced - the car has a third party warranty who said "no- not covered" until I posted a review, then all of a sudden they were falling over themselves to pay up as long as I took the review down.

Hope it all goes well and she makes a speedy recovery.

This is the current state of it with various bit dry fitted. I went with the MAS mounted horizontally in the end the downside is the air intake elbow will need chopping off and re-welding facing forward. The oil sight glass leaks and will need replacing, the centre stand will need the central brace chopping out and welding a bit lower as its very close to fouling the back tyre. I have no idea if the existing loom will work & no idea what to do about the clocks at the moment. I hate the plastic box with all the clockwork electrics and the 8 million wires so thinking about trying motogadget replacements. If I can get it finished or at least working and ride it next summer I'll be satisfied.

Ive done 0 miles on my project ... I am almost ready to try to start it though... Not looking forward to rewiring the thing ...