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Miss America


boboneleg

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Fitted a new exhaust system today, not a straightforward fit (is aftermarket stuff ever straightforward) .  Had to get a bit funky with the bracket that matches up to the mid pipe but it went on in the end.  I'll give it a ride tomorrow to see what I think, I'm hoping that it will be quieter than the FMF silencer on there at the moment .

 

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IMG_1824.thumb.jpeg.f9dbadd21909641c0fddce826bd39de6.jpeg

 

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12 hours ago, boboneleg said:

Fitted a new exhaust system today, not a straightforward fit (is aftermarket stuff ever straightforward) .  Had to get a bit funky with the bracket that matches up to the mid pipe but it went on in the end.  I'll give it a ride tomorrow to see what I think, I'm hoping that it will be quieter than the FMF silencer on there at the moment .

 

IMG_1816.thumb.jpeg.4c820073759b3bee5954b14064f0a833.jpeg

IMG_1818.thumb.jpeg.fcd6ba8dfdfa5b40d06eed68d86af411.jpeg

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IMG_1821.thumb.jpeg.1dfb0dba69b5ac943fb75c0130f092b7.jpeg

IMG_1824.thumb.jpeg.f9dbadd21909641c0fddce826bd39de6.jpeg

 

i had a delkevic on my cb5 and not too loud

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When I had the silencer off on the XR it popped like that, and the bike ran out of power at high revs. Silencer back on, adjust the mix, and suddenly it's way faster at high revs to the point it pulls 15 or so more kmh top speed. 

Low rpm grunt and the open exhaust really helped, though, more snappy and less of the famous XR stall.

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  • 7 months later...

So I've been giving Miss America a bit of a spruce up as there were still a few things that I wasn't happy with .  After shit performance in the rain in France back in June I junked the Striker speedo as it was a piece of rubbish, didn't like the rain, didn't like the heat so I replaced it with the O/E speedo.

I also wasn't happy with the Cycra hand guards as the fittings were shoddy and they wouldn't stay where they were supposed to be.  I replaced them today with some Acerbis items which are much better fitting...........

IMG_3547.thumb.JPEG.a900fc9b358da9b0338af01c33b17cc3.JPEG

IMG_3551.thumb.JPEG.0a0fd5724139a7a17563e2a8e7e6c9e1.JPEG

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At the same time I replaced the O/E brake and clutch levers for Warp9 three finger levers which have good adjustability.........

 

IMG_3499.thumb.JPEG.369a38c94abac184ba9a40743de0d960.JPEG

 

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and fitted a Warp9 choke cable guide as the original is plastic and can snap ...............

 

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IMG_3520.thumb.jpeg.278be63debdd8489cd3bf876e684dd41.jpeg

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8 minutes ago, boboneleg said:

So I've been giving Miss America a bit of a spruce up as there were still a few things that I wasn't happy with .  After shit performance in the rain in France back in June I junked the Striker speedo as it was a piece of rubbish, didn't like the rain, didn't like the heat so I replaced it with the O/E speedo.

I also wasn't happy with the Cycra hand guards as the fittings were shoddy and they wouldn't stay where they were supposed to be.  I replaced them today with some Acerbis items which are much better fitting...........

IMG_3547.thumb.JPEG.a900fc9b358da9b0338af01c33b17cc3.JPEG

IMG_3551.thumb.JPEG.0a0fd5724139a7a17563e2a8e7e6c9e1.JPEG

I have a set of Acerbis hand guards on the Beta slightly different to yours. they have spent allot of time on the ground and are holding up pretty good great bit of kit, as for the levers your just a tart with too much money LOL

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Next up was a new O/E ignition switch to replace the rubbish that was on there ................

 

IMG_3543.thumb.JPEG.0371950344bcfc78d01ef8b6521e6140.JPEG

 

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and the bonus is that I now have a working steering lock again.

 

I also fitted a JNS oil cooler guard ,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

IMG_3516.thumb.jpeg.19977f3f706b0532a4519347be2f83c9.jpeg

 

and a JNS front sprocket cover ..............

 

IMG_3517.thumb.jpeg.134386c9948c9e49722cb1eb92a4c804.jpeg

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4 minutes ago, Sir Fallsalot said:

as for the levers your just a tart with too much money LOL

The levers are brilliant Fred, I had a set on Miss Australia (previous donkey)  , They're span adjustable which means I won't be getting cramp like I was with the O/E levers.

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6 minutes ago, boboneleg said:

The levers are brilliant Fred, I had a set on Miss Australia (previous donkey)  , They're span adjustable which means I won't be getting cramp like I was with the O/E levers.

I still think your a tart :classic_laugh:

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1 hour ago, boboneleg said:

Next up was a new O/E ignition switch to replace the rubbish that was on there ................

 

IMG_3543.thumb.JPEG.0371950344bcfc78d01ef8b6521e6140.JPEG

 

IMG_3545.thumb.JPEG.e950cff828cc993589a8ff8b13e38ccb.JPEG

 

and the bonus is that I now have a working steering lock again.

 

I also fitted a JNS oil cooler guard ,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

IMG_3516.thumb.jpeg.19977f3f706b0532a4519347be2f83c9.jpeg

 

and a JNS front sprocket cover ..............

 

IMG_3517.thumb.jpeg.134386c9948c9e49722cb1eb92a4c804.jpeg

I'm glad Pete was around to give you some pointers with that stuff...via the net. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So last week when I was out on Miss America she was cutting out intermitently.  In the end I noticed that it was on lanes with 'whoop' sections so I stopped to have a look and could see that the side stand was a bit loose so I reckon it was bouncing a bit and the side  stand switch was cutting the ignition.

I normally take side stand switches off my bikes as they can cause trouble when riding off road but I had missed this one.  So today I decided to eliminate the switch, first I took the stand off ............

IMG_3755.thumb.JPEG.504f5837517dacca0ea8e882151bbcfc.JPEG

 

the springs looked shagged so they will be replaced

 

IMG_3756.thumb.JPEG.ce46531a1a0f4e7fcfc81568922d2f1d.JPEG

 

Then I unbolted the switch

 

IMG_3757.thumb.JPEG.c3f6de4fe8becb2d1dc907c1397ff777.JPEG

 

and traced the wiring to the connector up under the seat and removed the whole thing

 

IMG_3758.thumb.JPEG.e04d2cf9e0514054c1e8a2cecabcdca4.JPEG

 

I then cut the sleeving back and snipped off the connector

 

IMG_3759.thumb.JPEG.d246ffc0654bcc7260e8f22d629be203.JPEG

 

The idea with this is too join the two wires and plug the connector back in to fool the ignition that the switch is still there.  For small electrical jobs I use these soldered wire connectors

 

IMG_3761.thumb.JPEG.c2ccf2641be5359547ab970917968909.JPEG

 

You then need a concentrated heat source to melt the solder and shrink the tube around it.  I use this plastic blow torch which works a treat ..........

 

IMG_3763.thumb.JPEG.05c1017fc8464b7636bdbfbe79368f3f.JPEG

IMG_3762.thumb.JPEG.25b2c2b5443d90173a9fbd912e0e59e1.JPEG

 

and the job is done , just plug the connector back into the loom and Bob's your Uncle :classic_tongue:

 

IMG_3760.thumb.JPEG.d51a772e2928b7c25b7442119be9c665.JPEG

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, boboneleg said:

So last week when I was out on Miss America she was cutting out intermitently.  In the end I noticed that it was on lanes with 'whoop' sections so I stopped to have a look and could see that the side stand was a bit loose so I reckon it was bouncing a bit and the side  stand switch was cutting the ignition.

I normally take side stand switches off my bikes as they can cause trouble when riding off road but I had missed this one.  So today I decided to eliminate the switch, first I took the stand off ............

IMG_3755.thumb.JPEG.504f5837517dacca0ea8e882151bbcfc.JPEG

 

the springs looked shagged so they will be replaced

 

IMG_3756.thumb.JPEG.ce46531a1a0f4e7fcfc81568922d2f1d.JPEG

 

Then I unbolted the switch

 

IMG_3757.thumb.JPEG.c3f6de4fe8becb2d1dc907c1397ff777.JPEG

 

and traced the wiring to the connector up under the seat and removed the whole thing

 

IMG_3758.thumb.JPEG.e04d2cf9e0514054c1e8a2cecabcdca4.JPEG

 

I then cut the sleeving back and snipped off the connector

 

IMG_3759.thumb.JPEG.d246ffc0654bcc7260e8f22d629be203.JPEG

 

The idea with this is too join the two wires and plug the connector back in to fool the ignition that the switch is still there.  For small electrical jobs I use these soldered wire connectors

 

IMG_3761.thumb.JPEG.c2ccf2641be5359547ab970917968909.JPEG

 

You then need a concentrated heat source to melt the solder and shrink the tube around it.  I use this plastic blow torch which works a treat ..........

 

IMG_3763.thumb.JPEG.05c1017fc8464b7636bdbfbe79368f3f.JPEG

IMG_3762.thumb.JPEG.25b2c2b5443d90173a9fbd912e0e59e1.JPEG

 

and the job is done , just plug the connector back into the loom and Bob's your Uncle :classic_tongue:

 

IMG_3760.thumb.JPEG.d51a772e2928b7c25b7442119be9c665.JPEG

 

 

 

Nice one Bob i think i said before i done that on the dog as well as the clutch switch and then drove it of the side stand with the starter motor in a petrol station when i forgot about it :classic_laugh:

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4 hours ago, boboneleg said:

So last week when I was out on Miss America she was cutting out intermitently.  In the end I noticed that it was on lanes with 'whoop' sections so I stopped to have a look and could see that the side stand was a bit loose so I reckon it was bouncing a bit and the side  stand switch was cutting the ignition.

I normally take side stand switches off my bikes as they can cause trouble when riding off road but I had missed this one.  So today I decided to eliminate the switch, first I took the stand off ............

IMG_3755.thumb.JPEG.504f5837517dacca0ea8e882151bbcfc.JPEG

 

the springs looked shagged so they will be replaced

 

IMG_3756.thumb.JPEG.ce46531a1a0f4e7fcfc81568922d2f1d.JPEG

 

Then I unbolted the switch

 

IMG_3757.thumb.JPEG.c3f6de4fe8becb2d1dc907c1397ff777.JPEG

 

and traced the wiring to the connector up under the seat and removed the whole thing

 

IMG_3758.thumb.JPEG.e04d2cf9e0514054c1e8a2cecabcdca4.JPEG

 

I then cut the sleeving back and snipped off the connector

 

IMG_3759.thumb.JPEG.d246ffc0654bcc7260e8f22d629be203.JPEG

 

The idea with this is too join the two wires and plug the connector back in to fool the ignition that the switch is still there.  For small electrical jobs I use these soldered wire connectors

 

IMG_3761.thumb.JPEG.c2ccf2641be5359547ab970917968909.JPEG

 

You then need a concentrated heat source to melt the solder and shrink the tube around it.  I use this plastic blow torch which works a treat ..........

 

IMG_3763.thumb.JPEG.05c1017fc8464b7636bdbfbe79368f3f.JPEG

IMG_3762.thumb.JPEG.25b2c2b5443d90173a9fbd912e0e59e1.JPEG

 

and the job is done , just plug the connector back into the loom and Bob's your Uncle :classic_tongue:

 

IMG_3760.thumb.JPEG.d51a772e2928b7c25b7442119be9c665.JPEG

 

 

 

 

So you don't just twist the two cables around each other and put tape over that?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The side stand springs arrived from Fowlers last week so I fitted them today.  I works nicely now, just need to give it a ride over some rough stuff ..............

 

IMG_3863.thumb.JPEG.70f3eda6f2ea57c9e81c26bf7553aeab.JPEG

 

IMG_3864.thumb.JPEG.9e55b83f81ec5be933f855699e604df2.JPEG

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2 hours ago, boboneleg said:

The side stand springs arrived from Fowlers last week so I fitted them today.  I works nicely now, just need to give it a ride over some rough stuff ..............

 

IMG_3863.thumb.JPEG.70f3eda6f2ea57c9e81c26bf7553aeab.JPEG

 

IMG_3864.thumb.JPEG.9e55b83f81ec5be933f855699e604df2.JPEG

Showing off with your proper length springs I see.

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  • 3 months later...

So it's time for some work on Miss America as I have a trip to France/Italy coming up soon. 

First job was to change the rear tyre , there's a Mitas E-09 on there (fitted by the previous owner) and they can be a bitch to remove so get the shit job done first 🙂

Leave them out in the sun for a while , much easier to work on a warm tyre .............

IMG_4830.thumb.jpeg.e15e75b6384fd6a15eaacb1f08ad9a1c.jpeg

 

Get the ABBA bead breaker on it and squirt some WD-40 into the bead ................

 

IMG_4832.thumb.jpeg.ca4eb52981cdc35ef1572698199889b0.jpeg

 

and then lever it off, looks easy enough in the photos but it took about 30 mins on the bead breaker to get it done.........

 

IMG_4833.thumb.jpeg.acc9a0a17dbefa1ed3e8e37148204f69.jpeg

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The next thing to need attention was the cush drive rubbers in the hub.  They had been mounted with some silicone sealant by the previous owner (a common trick to stop transmission slop)...........

 

IMG_4838.thumb.JPEG.d518d5eae0a2aa9a3106b9d39705afea.JPEG

 

Once I got the rubbers out I was left with this ...............

 

IMG_4839.thumb.JPEG.e48870b214d0b8dd37972be9f1cc449d.JPEG

 

but brake cleaner and a scraper got it clean , this was the crap that came out ..................

 

IMG_4840.thumb.JPEG.47d98524dc34b27865c5554f625b8c86.JPEG

 

with the hub cleaned I fitted some Polyurethane cush drives from Procycle.  These are supposed to be much better than the rubber originals ..............

 

IMG_4844.thumb.JPEG.756b3878e2ca7cda759f10efa72e0e4b.JPEG

 

The cush drive was then mounted to the wheel and then the wheel was squeezed back into the bike ...............

 

IMG_4848.thumb.JPEG.ff9ee16b5c0e08dddd3f66f77b81ea10.JPEG

 

 

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Next job was new chain and sprockets .  So new front sprocket on ..............

 

IMG_4845.thumb.JPEG.001d7ccfe4e48d7dbafa8d1d994eec6e.JPEG

 

The rear sprocket had hardly any wear so I left that in place and then fitted the chain...............

 

IMG_4846.thumb.JPEG.09220b152fb89bd4452f8aeff663f7b1.JPEG

 

IMG_4847.thumb.JPEG.c0d3852a299a4d5848e221dfbf47855b.JPEG

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Fitted a new front tyre this morning, I was sweating like a pig even at 10.00am.  Someone needs to do something about this weather, it's just not British you know .....................  :classic_laugh:

 

IMG_4852.thumb.jpeg.ad05b7cfc08fcd7cd756ac7b34d0e7bb.jpeg

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On 11/06/2023 at 12:41, boboneleg said:

Next job was new chain and sprockets .  So new front sprocket on ..............

 

IMG_4845.thumb.JPEG.001d7ccfe4e48d7dbafa8d1d994eec6e.JPEG

 

The rear sprocket had hardly any wear so I left that in place and then fitted the chain...............

 

IMG_4846.thumb.JPEG.09220b152fb89bd4452f8aeff663f7b1.JPEG

 

IMG_4847.thumb.JPEG.c0d3852a299a4d5848e221dfbf47855b.JPEG

That chain looks a bit loose.

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